Mention the Amalfi Coast in Italy and images of colorful villages perched on sea cliffs and where the mountains meet the Mediterranean Sea come to mind. We spent one Easter week in Sorrento and Rome a few years ago. We took a day trip to Positano and Amalfi from Sorrento which we used as our base. See why this is one of the most visited areas in Italy and its breathtaking views.
Getting to Positano from Sorrento
There are several ways to get to the Amalfi Coast from Sorrento. Unfortunately, some of these options like the ferries/boats or the city sightseeing bus tour wasn’t operating yet during our visit.
Many start operating after Easter or near the start of summer. We looked at another private van tour but it started at 11 AM and didn’t give us enough time to explore as we wanted.
The SITA public bus was our only reasonable choice to take during our visit. The bus stop is located across from the Sorrento train station. The line was already quite long before the bus arrived and this was low season.
Both tourists and locals use this bus for public transportation. So, there are no reserved seats and chances are you will be standing for most of the ride. We recommend avoiding this option if you can unless you line up quite early.
We never would have done this option during the busy summer season. The bus has a maximum of about 50 people and less than 30 seats.
The Amalfi Coast Road
I read several descriptions of the many hairpin turns and narrow roads hugging the cliff along the Amalfi Coast. But, it didn’t really prepare us for this harrowing journey.
Those bus drivers were amazing and so skillful navigating those roads. It was understandable why many locals don’t recommend doing a self-drive here especially during the busy season. There were instances when our bus was within inches of another car or bus.
We got lucky and all four of us had seats. I felt even luckier to snag seats on the right side which were supposed to offer the best views during our ride. And it was definitely the best side!
If you’re not prone to motion sickness, we highly recommend the right side from Sorrento and the left coming from Amalfi or Positano. The seaside views were incredible.
Exploring Positano
There were some stops in some of the smaller towns but most passengers got off the bus in Positano. There were two stops. We got off at Sponda after passing the main town center.
Positano was the town I most wanted to see after seeing so many beautiful photos of it over the years. It did not disappoint. Our first full view of the colorful houses perched on the cliff was spectacular.
Many of the restaurants with unobstructed views of the ocean and the colorful panorama were not open yet. We found many workers getting them ready for the busy which picks up after Easter. There was a lot of construction going on.
We took our time walking down to the town center and shoreline. It was hard not to stop and take a picture of everything here. Spring hasn’t totally sprung yet. It’s hard to imagine this place even more photogenic once it’s surrounded by colorful blooms.
We couldn’t stop taking pictures! It was so postcard perfect. Can you see why this is also called the “vertical town”?
The Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Positano
The colorful tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta dominates the panorama and the town’s views. This cathedral was founded in the late 10th century originally as a Benedictine Abbey. The church was re-dedicated to the Virgin Mary in the 12th century.
Legend says that the icon or painting of the Virgin Mary miraculously arrived into Positano via a cargo ship. The winds had died down and the ship was stuck off Positano’s coast. The sailors heard a voice telling them to “Put me down”. They deduced it came from the icon. The wind picked up again once they decided to land and bring the icon to shore.
We were lucky that the church was open and couldn’t pass up going inside. The surprisingly small Baroque interior was mostly made of white and gold and quite bright.
There was a simple elegance to its interior compared to other ornate Italian churches. There was a 13th century Madonna and Child painting also known as the Black Virgin behind the main altar.
This church has an enviable location of just a few steps from the main beach. No wonder it’s quite popular for weddings. I don’t think we’ve visited any church this close to the beach before.
The Positano Beach
You can’t go to Positano and not walk along the shores of its main beach called the Spiaggia Grande Beach. This isn’t like the beaches we’re used to at home in San Diego. No palm trees in sight and the sand was a lot darker combined with pebbles.
But, with the town and the majestic cliffs as its backdrop, it was understandable why this was a very popular place especially during the summer. Restaurants, stores and bars lined the small promenade. There were still some construction going on for some areas.
The dock had several kiosks for tours and ferry tickets to other Amalfi Coast villages or to the island of Capri. Though, most of them were still closed during our visit. We loved walking along the beach and couldn’t resist dipping our toes in the Mediterranean Sea. It was cold!
There were no colorful umbrellas or beach chairs in sight but we found some fishermen getting their boats ready. The beach stretched for about 984 ft (300 m).
During busy season, L’Incanto manages part of the beach where visitors can rent out chairs and umbrellas plus use changing rooms. The middle part of the beach is free for everyone to plop a towel.
Shops and Restaurants in Positano
We loved rounding each corner and finding colorful and charming streets like these. I can’t recommend any particular shops to visit since there were many to browse, window shop and stop by depending on your interests.
If you love color and shopping, one can spend days here exploring Positano’s shops. I didn’t take note which shops I stopped at since we had limited time. I darted into ones that caught my eye. So, go explore. There were many stores selling ceramics, colorful clothing and sandals where they can customize them for you for about 30-40 Euros.
There were some restaurants facing the water that were getting ready for lunch. Unfortunately, we were here around 10 AM which was too early. I have read many recommendations of Chez Black.
They were right on the beach with unrivaled views. Don’t miss Buca di Bacco right by the beach for some coffee, desserts and gelato. My kids weren’t leaving this area without getting their daily dose of gelato.
We walked back uphill to the bus stop where we got off. That hill looked a bit daunting from the beach but was actually not as bad as we expected. We stopped at a few of the colorful stores and admired the coastal views which helped make this walk go a little faster and forget the climb.
It didn’t take long for the SITA Bus to come around again. Make sure its sign says Amalfi on it. The ride was another 50 minutes.
We passed through some amazing views of the ocean and harrowing turns along the coast again. We also passed by some smaller towns with incredible views and of course, a beautiful church in the town center.
Exploring Amalfi
This was our first glimpse of Amalfi. There are no hills to walk up and down here but this is the largest town along the coast.
It was once one of the most powerful marine towns along with Venice and Genoa. The bus stopped right in front of the beachfront area and by the ferry dock which was a quick walk to the town center.
There were several restaurants near the water and with beautiful views while dining. Many looked just like this setting. How’s this for fine dining?
The Cathedral of St. Andrew in Amalfi
The Cathedral of St. Andrew or the Duomo dominated the town center. It was hard to miss this imposing structure that seemed to loom over the town. The church was named after St. Andrew the Apostle whose remains are buried inside the crypt. He is Amalfi’s patron saint.
The Cathedral of Amalfi was built in the 13th century and dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle, whose remains are kept in the crypt. It has a beautiful and unique exterior with an Arab influence and mosaics. The bell tower with its green and yellow tiled top completed the church.
It was worth climbing the 62 steep steps to the top to get a closer look. I loved the arches up here and the terrace that looked out into the central square, Piazza Duomo and town.
We didn’t get the chance to go inside but there is a small museum and a Cloister of Paradise filled with medieval murals, historic art, marble sculptures and a Mediterranean garden. The church’s interior featured several wall paintings of St. Andre’s life and miracles.
The Fountain in Amalfi
We enjoyed walking around the narrow alleys of Amalfi. Shops and cafes flanked the one main street here. My kids were hungry and wanted a quick bite while we continued our sightseeing.
So, we opted for a quick pizza. The fish and chips place was one of the other places that had long lines. Go figure!
It was fun to come across a fountain set against a wall with two marble faces. This was built in the 18th century and was called De Cape ‘e Ciucci.
Its name came from the donkeys (ciucci) that stopped here to drink after their trek with heavy loads from a village above Amalfi. It now permanently displays a presepe or Italian nativity all year since the early 1970s.
This was the most elaborate nativity scene we’ve ever seen. The many miniature figures were made with limestone and tufa.
Some of the scenes and figures even extends below the water where coins and goldfish reside. The was a whole scene of all the village people doing their everyday tasks along with many animals.
It was fun to look closely at the figures to see what they were up to. The details were remarkable. It was a wonderful glimpse into village life. Our family loved it. It was a great way to entertain passersby especially kids.
Amalfi was so much easier to walk around than Positano. There were also many stores selling ceramics, colorful clothing, limoncello and custom made sandals.
Located below some steep cliffs, it was a little bit more crowded here than Positano. Amalfi also had beaches but also many medieval buildings packed with history and culture.
There are so many more charming villages along the Amalfi Coast. If you have a limited time in this area, then Positano and Amalfi should be at the top of your list.
There are very great reasons why these are the two most popular and visited towns. You can simply get lost and just wander the charming streets and you never know what hidden gems you’ll find.
Tips for a day trip to Positano and Amalfi from Sorrento
There are several ways to get to the Amalfi Coast from Sorrento depending on your level of comfort, time and budget.
- The Public bus option: The SITA bus starts at Piazza Giovanni Battista De Curtis by the Sorrento train station. You can buy tickets at the newsstand inside the train station or they may have someone set up by the bus stop. You cannot buy tickets on the bus.
Everyone must punch each bus ticket on the stamping machine next to the driver when boarding. Sorrento to Positano bus ride takes about 40 minutes. As of April 2023, tickets ranged from €2-4 depending on your destination. We got the 24-hour ticket (€ 10.00 per ticket) since we were going all the way to Amalfi and it was cheaper and more convenient to buy this than separate ones.
Remember to try and sit on the right side of the bus going to the Amalfi Coast for the best views of the coast along the route.
- Heading Back using the public bus. If you’re visiting these two towns, try to head back to Sorrento from Amalfi where the SITA buses started. We talked to a few people who regretted getting on the bus to Sorrento in Positano. Even during the low season, buses filled up and they had to stand most of the way back to Sorrento or wait for the next bus.
- Private tours from Sorrento to Positano are the best way to go but can get quite expensive especially for families. Prices for an 8-hour tour average at least 100 euros per person plus gratuities. If this fits your travel budget, go for it. It’ll allow you to stop at some viewpoints and customize an itinerary.
- There were also some group tours to Positano and Amalfi in vans for a little less but left later in the day and felt like they didn’t give enough time for stops in the towns. Book any private tour early especially if you’re traveling during the summer.
- Take the Ferry. The one main road from Sorrento to the Amalfi coast can get really crowded and have heavy car traffic during the summer months. It may take awhile to get anywhere whether you’re on a private car tour or on a bus.
During May-October, ferries also operate from Sorrento to Amalfi and take about an hour or from Sorrento to Positano for about 40 minutes. You can catch the ferry in Sorrento at Marina Piccola by using the staircase from Piazza Tasso or by bus. Reserve your tickets online as early as possible.
- Bring “barf/vomit bags” or take motion sickness medicine if you’re prone to motion sickness. Those roads are curvy and looking down from the road can make anyone feel nervous.
- Leave as early as you can. Even during the low season, we saw the difference with crowds and road traffic as the day progressed.
*Have you visited the Amalfi Coast towns?
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This looks like a delightful day to a dream destination. I’m always oohing and aahing over photos like yours and dreaming of going here. Lovely! And great tips – I didn’t know there was any other option than the ferry or a all day tour.
Thanks Jill! You’d love this beautiful area.
Amalfi coast is one of a few regions in Italy I haven’t visited yet. Saving these tips for my visit.
#TravelPhotoThursday
I hope you can visit soon.
This is definitely on my list! It looks so adorable! #theweeklypostcard PS! I’ve shared your post on StumbleUpon.
Looks like such a beautiful area. The public bus sounds stressful, so glad you all got seats. Did you consider renting a car and driving on your own? Thanks for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard.
No, we didn’t consider driving at all because of the roads. Many posts I’ve read discouraged it and I would have been a nervous wreck with my husband driving this road. They were very curvy and windy.It’s also on a side of the cliff.
Ah, the beautiful Amalfi Coast! We’ve been there for our 25th wedding anniversary, so I have very sweet memories about this place. I always thought this is the perfect destination for lovers, but I guess it’s perfect for just anybody. I missed the “presepe” last time we were there though, so I guess that’s a good reason to go back, hahaha! #TheWeeklyPostcard
The Almafi Coast looks stunning! That’s one place I would love to visit one day! You have some great information here so I’m saving this. #EverydayWanderer
Our original honeymoon plans was to go to the Almafi Coast. I had our hotels booked and then we suddenly decided we wanted something new and exiting and went to the Balkans. I will regret not visiting here until we’ve been! Pinned this for later as it’s really helpful! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!
Positano and Amalfi are stunning cities. I did not know that you could take a public bus to get there. The arches in the Cathedral of Amalfi remind me of those is La Mezquita in Cordoba, Spain.
We loved this trip. We did it in reverse from Positano to Sorrento because we were staying at Positano. It’s true Positano is postcard perfect and inviting to photograph. We loved the bus trip and have total respect for the drivers who do an amazing job. Loved reading this post as it took me back to our trip.
This is probably the only area in Italy I haven’t seen yet! I´d love to visit Positano – your photos are wonderful! However, I’ve been to Cinque Terre during an Easter week and it was soooooooo crowded! So now I´m only traveling to Italy in the off season! #TheWeeklyPostcard
I am glad that you warned us about the sharp curves while you rode the bus to Positano, we will not rent a car for this trip.
This is the 5th time I have heard of Amalfi Coast in a week. Maybe that’s a hint that I should visit there next.
The photos you took are wonderful.Plus I will save those useful tips.
#theweeklypostcard
What incredible views and history. It’s amazing to see that much packed into a hillside. Absolutely postcard-perfect. Your tips on visiting in the off-season are great; that’s when we tend to hit tourist-heavy destinations. Thanks for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard
I would take the public bus for the adventure, but probably not during the high season. Thanks for linking up this week. #TPThursday
These places are so beautiful! I would love to visit them and walk some of the paths from where you can see the cliffs and sea. I have been to Sorrento two times and have experienced a bit if the narrow, curvy roads. I was really nervous since the driver was taking them since he was in some sort of race.
Amalfi – Positano – Sorrento – #Swoon! We did not spend nearly enough time in this area and are dying to go back. Thanks for sharing – your pictures are fueling our daydreams! #TheWeeklyPostcard #WeekendWanderlust
The Amalfi Coast is probably one of the most mesmerizing places in Europe, Mary! A day trip there sounds like lots of fun! :)
What an amazing trip you must have had! The pictures are gorgeous. Thanks for this very well written post.