Hiking Fern Canyon in Redwood National Park

The majestic and tallest trees on earth reside in Redwood National Park and its three California State Parks. We loved our short hike through Stout Grove Memorial Trail among these ancient giants. We also really enjoyed hiking Fern Canyon at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park in coastal Northern California.

Getting to Fern Canyon

Fern Canyon was one of the most unique trails we’ve ever seen. Come along with us on an adventure through fern-covered walls, elk on the beach and an unforgettable sighting. We loved that this park system also has a variety of natural wonders beyond the giant trees.

It’s not the easiest trail to reach even during our August visit. But, it was well worth the drive and hassle especially with the kids constantly asking “Are we almost there yet?”

We went through six miles of narrow, bumpy, dirt and gravel forest road crossing a couple of small streams. Most of the foliage and branches along the road were gray from all the dust clouds from the passing cars as you can see from the picture below.

Gold Bluffs Beach at Fern Canyon

The drive descended into the shoreline and Gold Bluffs Beach where gold flakes were once found on the sand. It became a site for a small gold rush.

Mist covered the coastal bluffs when we got there. It all appeared very mysterious. From the parking lot, it was an easy .1 mile trail to Fern Canyon Trail along a creek.

Fern Canyon Trail Loop

Once we turned on the path, tall canyon walls completely covered with varied ferns and mosses greeted us. It was an impressive sight!

Five varied ferns clung to the walls. We had never heard of these ferns before like five-finger, deer, lady, sword, and chain ferns. Millions of years ago, water draining into the ocean sculpted Fern Canyon’s steep walls.

The sea in this area eventually retreated. Some of these ferns were ancient species from prehistoric times.

We followed the path along the creek while walking on pebbles. There were a couple of inches of water in some areas as it curved through the canyon.

We were here during an early August weekend so water levels may vary by season. If you have kids (or those young at heart) who like to jump in puddles or splash in stream beds, this is an ideal place to enjoy it.

Fern Canyon ranged from 15-30 feet wide and with 30-50 foot walls and was so green and lush. We felt like we were transported back to thousands of years ago or in a fantasy world of elves and fairies. Walking between these tall fern walls was an amazing experience and was such a memorable hike.

The whole trail was about half a mile one way and ended at some steps to climb out of the canyon. This led to the James Irvine Trail.

We decided not to venture further and just returned via the path we came in. The walk back was a different perspective but just as beautiful. It gave us some time to explore more of the area and look at the walls closely.

We found some water seeping and flowing down the canyon walls. Some were tiny drips and others were mini waterfalls. It was very relaxing to stand there and try to trace its path down.

Much like the redwoods, there was something primitive, calming and mystical about this place. It felt incredible to be surrounded by so much fern and greenery, more than we’ve ever seen before.

There weren’t that many people here during our late afternoon visit. Most of the time all we heard was the sound of running water from the creek.

My kids really enjoyed wandering through the creek and trail. In some areas, we passed through some wooden planks used for footbridges to cross the creek.

I think my kids liked climbing and scrambling over these fallen trees along the canyon trail the best. Mother Nature’s outdoor playground at its finest.

We actually had to navigate around or climb on some of these trees to pass through some blocked paths. It made the hike more adventurous.

It would probably be a quick half hour to get through the canyon but we took our time to see the ferns closer, took many photos and looked for animals the information board told us lived here too. While we didn’t see the green tree frog or the Oregon salamander (despite my kids thoroughly looking at the fern walls and shrubbery), we did spot this garter snake. Can you see it?

There were some logs along the walls that we sat on. You didn’t really need to rest, but this was one of those places where you just had to stop and take in your surroundings. It was an amazing feeling to sit there and look up at these fern-covered walls and the trees on the ridge.

Before coming here, we read that they used this location in the dinosaur movie, Jurassic Park 2: The Lost World. It’s not hard to see why the Jurassic Park staff chose it. We could almost picture the dinosaurs walking through this canyon.

Animal Sightings at the Gold Bluffs Beach

There is more to this area beyond the redwoods and Fern Canyon. Head to the Gold Bluffs beach from the parking lot for some of the best animal sightings. We spotted this herd of Roosevelt elk lounging on the sand.

Experts have described them as a cross between a “South American llama and a deer”. They roamed freely throughout the parks.

Roosevelt elk are the largest of the last remaining North American elk subspecies. They eventually moved to their grazing areas. We all kept our distance but their every move fascinated us.

Most of the herd we saw were females and there were even a few calves. But, the most impressive ones were the males or bulls. They average about 875 pounds and looked very intimidating. Those antlers looked scary!

It just goes to show that sometimes, you see some strange things on the road. Unicorn man was certainly unforgettable.

He told us he wore it to “have a little fun” and he enjoyed seeing people’s reactions. He certainly made quite an impact on us and the crowd there. I did say this place was magical, right?

Fern Canyon was a short and unique hike on an easy and scenic trail for all ages. It may not be famous or huge but it was still an amazing place to visit.

It really was a hidden gem within the redwood forests. If you make it to this part of California, power through the dirt roads and make your way to hiking Fern Canyon and its surrounding beach for a memorable experience. Who knows what you may run into.

Tips for Hiking Fern Canyon in the Redwoods

• To visit Gold Bluffs Beach Day-Use Area, including Fern Canyon Trailhead, you need reservations between May 15 and September 15. Reservations are first-come, first-served and can be made until 11:59 pm (PST) the day before. Please make your reservations on this Redwood Parks website.
• Cost: $12 day use entrance fee (cash or check only) unless you have a California State Park or National Park Service pass. It’s collected at a fee station before reaching the beach.
• Getting here: Head west on Davison Road from Highway 101 which is about three miles from the town of Orick. Follow the Elk Meadow road for about six miles to Gold Bluffs Beach and continues for about 1.5 miles and ends at the Fern Canyon Trailhead and parking lot. Only vehicles under 24 feet long and motorhomes and trailers are not allowed on this road.
• It can also be reached by hiking the five-mile James Irvine Trail that starts at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park visitor center.
• Wear water shoes if you can but closed toe is preferabl. Small pebbles can possibly getting into sandals and slippers.
• There were bathrooms (port-o-potties with no flushing or sinks). Bring hand sanitizers or wipes.
• There were some picnic tables around the beach area and if you get lucky, you may have unobstructed views of the elk.
• There were no food concession stands or vending machines here so bring plenty of food, snacks and drinks.
• Despite the road being rough and feeling like you’re on an off-road adventure including the creek crossings, we had a four-door standard rental car and we made it intact. The car was very dirty and dusty but had no issues of getting stuck

Have you visited Fern Canyon or the Redwood National and State Parks?

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